Thursday, March 4, 2021
Parents, brother Roy, and me, in 1956
Thursday, February 18, 2021
Charles Fredrick Braine & family
Graves of the Braine brothers
Monday, February 15, 2021
"Pondside" in 2009 - a video
In 2009, Roy Braine (my son) visited Sri Lanka with Shannon, his fianc'ee, and her sister Amanda. Videos they made on this journey were recently rediscovered, and here is the video of "Pondside".
https://vimeo.com/512270389/2d496a0cc9
Sunday, February 7, 2021
Charles Stanley Braine (1874-1944) – the Rajah of Mawatte
The e-mail, with the question “Are you a Ceylon Braine?”, arrived out of the blue when I lived in Hong Kong. The writer - I’ll call her Susan - had found me on the Internet. She went onto detail some family history, and claimed that, because she and I shared great, great grandparents, we were third cousins. Family history had been an interest since she was 10 years old. She had inherited a collection of family documents and a photo album, and also found family documents from research in the UK. She mentioned that both my great, great grandfather and great grandfather had been planters in Ceylon.
This came as a huge surprise. Not having delved into
family history, I was under the impression that my grandfather was the first Braine
to arrive in Ceylon. Instead, from Susan’s information, I realized that my
English roots went back at least five generations in Ceylon.
From older relatives – my father and his eight siblings -
I had never heard of a great grandfather, let alone a great, great grandfather.
My English grandfather, Charles Stanley Braine, had passed away six years
before I was born, and his photo hung at my grandmother’s house at Boralessa,
in the Lunuwila area. My father and his siblings talked fondly about “daddy”,
but never about a “grandpa”.
Family photos and documents were scattered among my
uncles and aunts. When most of them emigrated to the UK and Australia starting
in 1963, these photos and documents were gone with them. But, over the years,
with the help of Susan and a friend in London, and my travels during which I
visited far flung relatives, I have collected old photos and documents, and pieced
together family history. More historical documents are coming online, and
ancestry websites are in business, and that, too, has helped.
Charles
Stanley Braine, my grandfather
Charles Stanley was born in Ceylon on 25 December 1874. He
was the eldest son of Charles Frederick Braine and Adeline Mary Becher, who had
married in London earlier that year.
Like his father, uncles, and grandfather, Charles Stanley took to planting, starting at East Holyrood Estate, Talawakelle, in 1898, at the age of 24. After six years at this tea plantation, he moved to Mawatta Estate, a coconut plantation in the hot and humid north western province, in 1904. The reason for his move from the lush and salubrious hill country to the hot and humid NWP is not known.
After switching to nearby Yakwila Estate for brief
periods, he finally returned to Mawatta Estate in 1914, and continued there for
30 more years. Though coconut plantations, Mawatte and Yakwila were owned by
Ceylon Tea Plantations Co. Ltd. As on tea and rubber plantations, most workers
on these coconut estates were Tamils who had been brought from South India.
Hence, Tamil was the lingua franca
and Charles Stanley spoke Tamil. The workers called him “Rajah”, which meant
king.
Coconut husks. The fibers are made into ropes. |
Coconuts drying in the sun |
About 550 acres in extent, Mawatte Estate also had a
fiber mill, a copra kiln, an office, a spacious bungalow for the manager,
quarters for staff members and line rooms for the workers, and a network of
gravel roads. The estate owned two barges (called “padda boats”) to transport
copra to Colombo. The barges were moored
on the nearby Hamilton Canal, and double-bullock carts transported the copra
from the estate to the barges, which took 10 hours to reach Colombo. On the
return journey, they brought groceries for the estate workers.
Barges on Hamilton Canal |
Perhaps around 1907, Charles Stanley, who was unmarried,
began a liaison with a Sinhalese worker at the estate’s fiber mill, named Engracia
Nonis. She was a resident of Boralessa village, only a couple of miles from
Mawatte Estate. They came from very different
backgrounds, he from a line of English planters, who as the colonial rulers of
Ceylon had immense power and influence, and she from a poor family. She did not
speak English, and he did not speak Sinhala. They spoke to each other in Tamil.
Such liaisons were not uncommon, especially on
lonely hill country estates. Because they were taboo and frowned upon by other
Europeans, they were carried on surreptitiously, and the women and the
resulting children were not always acknowledged. Charles Stanley’s liaison was
no secret, because he invited Engracia to reside in his bungalow, and when the
children began to arrive, accepted paternity. But, his widowed mother was
living in Ceylon, at Nuwara Eliya, and his siblings were also in Ceylon. We do
not know how his family reacted to Charles Stanley’s interracial, common law
marriage. Their eldest child Roselind was born in June 1909, and Charles Stanley’s
mother left Ceylon two months later.
Engracia and children at The Meet, circa 1940 |
By all accounts, Charles Stanley was a loving father, affectionate and generous to his large brood. He built a spacious house at Boralessa, named “The Meet”, where Engracia and the children resided most of the time. Engracia had relatives in the village who helped her to bring up the children and manage the household. During school holidays, she and the children stayed at Mawatte Estate.
Galloway |
Charles Stanley bought a 50-acre property in nearby Dankotuwa, which he named "Greenwood", for his wife and children. He built a large house, "Stanlodge” at Negombo, the nearest town, so that his children could attend school there. He also bought about 6-acres of land at Boralessa, expanding “The Meet” holding. Most interestingly, he built a pond so that his children and their friends could swim and enjoy themselves.
Mawatte garden |
My father Teddy, the youngest child, fondly recalled life at
Mawatte Estate with “daddy”. The
bungalow had a lovely garden with flowers and fruit trees. Meals were served at
a vast dining hall with a long table, the “Appu” (butler) at hand serving. At
night, the bungalow was lit by Petromax and kerosene lamps, there being no
electricity at the time. There was no radio either, and music was played on the
gramophone. On warm days, during meals, the Appu would stand at the end of the
dining hall and pull a rope which was connected to a large canvas cloth
(“punkah”) hung above the table to cool the diners.
Though an Anglican, Charles Stanley associated with the local Catholic clergy and was a benefactor, mainly because Engracia was a devout Catholic. All the children were baptized Catholics. As the family grew, much pressure was brought upon Charles Stanley by Catholic clergy to formalize their relationship. Perhaps due to the influence of other British planters, and also of his family, he dithered. He eventually relented, and Charles Stanley and Engracia were married at a Catholic church on 24 May 1924. Both attesting witnesses were Catholic nuns, which is telling: Sr. Mary of St. Solange and Sr. Mary of St. Antony.
Shipping
records show that, over the years, Charles Stanley took a number of trips to
the UK. He traveled alone.
For his travels around the Mawatte Estate, Charles Stanley used a single-bullock drawn cart called a hackery. These carts were fast on short trips. Going downhill one day, the bull panicked, the carter lost control, and the hackery overturned. Charles Stanley was thrown some distance and suffered serious injury.
A hackery (Not Charles Stanley in photo.) |
This
was wartime, and British troops were stationed in Negombo, so Charles Stanley
had opportunities for interactions with his countrymen. My father Teddy, who was
schooling at Negombo, recalled cycling over to visit his father.
A few years ago, I was
told about an elderly man who lived at Mawatta Estate, who still remembered
Charles Stanley, a full 70 years after the latter had passed away.
Sinnaiah also recalls the
morning routine on the estate. The workers would line up outside the office early
morning for the roster, when their attendance was recorded and were allocated
to various tasks on the estate. The fiber mill had its own workers. Coconuts
were husked, split in two before being sun dried and smoked in the copra kiln. The
children gorged on “pelapihi”, the snow-white sweet pulp within sprouting
coconuts.
Once a week, Charles
Stanley took the train to Colombo to bring money to pay the workers. On
Saturday, at noon, the workers lined-up at the office. The salaries were paid
in gold coins, known as “sovereigns” (worth about Rs. 12/ at that time) and
silver coins. The coins were counted and arranged in piles on a table in the
office. When their names were called, the workers had to sign a “pay sheet”
before collecting their salary. Many workers were illiterate, and placed their
thumbmark on the pay sheet instead of a signature.
Sinnaiah’s father, the field
supervisor, had told him how Charles Stanley and Engracia met. He had seen her at
the fiber mill on the estate and arranged for her to move into his bungalow,
with her own room and a servant to take care of her!
The bungalow was large,
with a wide verandah, and hanging lamps in every room. Charles Stanley loved
his bath, so water had to be heated and the bath tub filled manually. He loved
dogs, and always had fox terriers. English planters from nearby estates would visit
and stay for drinks and dinner, and the sound of laughter could be heard late
into the night.
Charles Stanley was a
benevolent manager. Sinnaiah says he had a “big heart” and looked into the
welfare of his workers. He provided free lunch to all the children on the
estate, and when workers were ill, sent them to the Dankotuwa hospital with a
note to the doctor.
Sinnaiah remembers the hackery
that Charles Stanley rode. It was pulled by a tall white bull, and the carter’s
name was Antony. Charles Stanley was badly injured in the accident when the
cart overturned, and was carried to the bungalow. When word of the accident
spread, the workers rushed to the bungalow and crowded around his bed, wailing
“Rajah, Rajah” and beating their breasts.
Charles Stanley was the
son and grandson of planters. Planting, and the smooth management of a large
work force, ran in his blood. He won the hearts of his workers.
Nearly 80 years after his
death, “Stanlodge”, “Greenwood”, and “The Meet” are no more. Mawatte Estate,
plundered by employees and politicians, partially divided among the landless,
is barely half its original size. The large bungalow has been demolished, and
replaced by a shabby, smaller one. The fiber mill is gone.
If Charles Stanley Braine
was to return, he would be heartbroken.
Tuesday, December 22, 2020
Charles Frederick Braine (1850 – 1896), Adventurous, Accident Prone, Great grandfather
I have previously written about my great, great grandfather Charles Joseph Braine (1814-1890), who became a coffee and tea planter in Ceylon. Charles Frederick was the fourth child Charles Joseph. He was born in Norton Fitzwarren, a village in Somerset, UK, where his parents resided upon their return from Hong Kong.
Charles Frederick first came to Ceylon in 1869, at the age of 19, to work for Ceylon Company Ltd., where his father Charles Joseph was the manager. He returned to the UK to marry Adeline Mary Becher on 9 April 1874 at Kensington, London. Their first child, Charles Stanley (my grandfather) was born the same year, on 25 December, in Ceylon.
I wonder if Ceylon Company Ltd., where both Charles
Joseph and Charles Frederick worked, was the predecessor of Ceylon Tea
Plantations Co., which came to own extensive rubber and coconut plantations as
well.
Charles Joseph left Ceylon around 1880, having become the
first owner of Abbotsleigh Estate by then. But, although he, too, was a
planter, Charles Frederick may not have worked at Abbotsleigh.
An article in The Times
of Ceylon, dated 12 March 1896, the day he died, sequences Braine’s career and
gives an indication of his family life. Braine “learnt planting” (“creeping”,
in planting jargon) at Meddacombra Estate, in the Nuwara Eliya area, owned by
Ceylon Company Ltd., and later worked at Pussellawa and Badulla on company
estates.
In 1880, when he was only 30, Braine moved to Dickoya, as
manager of Maniekwatte Estate, which amalgamated with Warleigh Estate to become
the well-known Wanarajah Estate. I have driven through this vast plantation,
which I believe now consists of ten estates. Ceylon’s best teas, and perhaps
the world’s as well, are grown in this area.
From 1887 to 1888, Braine is
listed as the owner of Beecherton Estate, in Kalutara, which must have been a
rubber plantation. In 1890 and 1891, he is listed as the owner of Arapolakanda
Estate, in Kalutara district, which may also have been a rubber plantation.
What made Braine, working in upcountry estates, buy a property on the
south-western coast is puzzling.
For some reason, perhaps the
opportunity to become a pioneer, Braine joined a new employer - Finlay, Mur,
and Co. - and moved to Kurunegala, in the North Western Province, to open Delwita
Estate. “Open” perhaps means clearing the forest to plant rubber or coconut. (I
believe Delwita Estate was in the Ridigama area.) The move, from lush and
salubrious Dickoya to hot and humid Kurunegala, did not bode well for Braine,
because he was thrown from his horse and suffered a fractured skull, and also came
down with malaria. After being treated at a local hospital (Kurunegala?),
Braine was moved to the Cargill’s Ward at Colombo hospital. He was treated by
Dr. T.F. Garvin, and Mrs. Braine also attended to him “assiduously”. But, after
a long illness, he passed away, only 45.
His funeral was at Colombo’s General Cemetery on the following day. Sixteen Europeans, all male, are listed as attending the funeral. Charles Stanley Braine, the eldest son (my grandfather), was the only family member there. Perhaps female attendees and children were not identified in the newspaper report. I have not been able to find Braine’s grave.
The lovely Christ Church at Warleigh is where Braine
attended service when he worked in the Dickoya area. This YouTube version of
the church and Wanarajah Estate is worth a look:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HsOJ5zN5_mY
The inside of the church bears a brass plaque in Braine’s
memory, “erected by his friends”.
Mrs. Braine then moved to Nuwara Eliya with her three
younger children. Nuwara Eliya, at an elevation of more than 5000 ft., has a
climate similar to that of England, and was a favorite sanctuary of English
planters and civil servants. Filled with churches, public buildings, clubs and
private homes in the Victorian style, and a golf course, a race course, polo
grounds, a cricket field, a brewery, and botanical gardens. Surrounded by
rolling hills, forest, and rushing streams, Nuwara Eliya was nicknamed “Little
England”.
A photo shows Mrs. Braine and her children at Nuwara
Eliya. The older son, Charles Stanley (my grandfather), was already a planter
in the North Western Province, and would have been visiting. In the photo, Muriel,
his youngest sister, has her arm circling his. Sister Eudora, perhaps in her
early twenties, is seated alongside Mrs. Braine. Younger brother William is
seated on the ground, on a leopard skin, holding a banjo. This could have been
a Christmas gathering. The leopard may have been shot by Mr. Braine, who
appears with a double-barreled shotgun in his photo and may have liked to hunt.
Leopards were a threat to estate workers.
Mrs. Braine returned to England in August 1909 with Muriel,
perhaps because she was ill. She passed away soon after, on 9 November, at
Albert Hospital, London. She was 60. Daughter Eudora was married by then, a
Mrs. Combe, and younger son William was a planter, too.
Some
years ago, my sister, BIL, and I drove to the Dickoya
area, visiting churches looking for evidence of Charles Fredrick’s life there.
At the quaint St. Mary’s church at Bogawantalawa, we found the grave of his infant son. The
child's full name was Frank Wyndham Becher Braine (his
mother's maiden name was Becher) and he had died on March 9,
1879, at the age of 11 months. His birth or death has not been
recorded on any document that I have seen. We may have been the first Braine’s to
visit his grave in more than a hundred years. It was a solemn moment for me.
Charles Frederick’s grandfather had 11 children. His father, 10. If not for his untimely death, he may have had more than five.
Sunday, December 6, 2020
The life of Charles Joseph Braine, my enterprising ancestor
C.J. Braine was born in Middlesex, England, in 1814. His parents were John Smith Braine and Mary Leworthy of St. Sidwell, Exeter, UK. C.J.B. had ten siblings and was the seventh child. He was baptized on Oct. 14, 1814, at St. John the Evangelist Church in Westminster. His father’s (place of) occupation is stated as Navy office, and their address is Abingdon Street.
India
Although no records of Braine’s work or his life in
Madras has been found yet, their first child, Eudora (named after her mother)
was born in Madras in 1846. I believe Braine traded in tea.
Hong Kong
Braine
worked for Dent & Co, one of the
wealthiest British merchant firms, or Hongs,
active in China during the 19th century, and rivaling Jardine’s. In Hong Kong (which
came under the British only in 1841) Braine is listed as a partner of Dent’s, a
Justice of the Peace and a member of the Asiatic Society.
Dent's HQ in Hong Kong |
Braine's residence in Green Bank |
Braine’s
stay in Hong Kong is best known for his ownership of “Green Bank”, a luxuriant garden. The Gardner’s Chronicle of March 1849 states
that Green Bank was owned by C.J. Braine, a partner in Dent’s, and was located
near the center of Victoria. “It had been stocked in 1845 with rare plants
transplanted from … Macau. A path though a winding shrubbery led to an orchid
walk where the orchids were kept cool by shady bamboos. Above this were banks
of myrtles, gardenias, and oleanders. A large collection of flowers in pots,
prettily painted in Chinese style were arranged on each side of the broad
terrace in front of the mansion. To one side a flower garden was arranged in
the English style around a lawn with a ‘cool house’”.
Dent's House within Green Bank. Lush greenery around, and rugged hills at the back. |
A longer, more sumptuous description (1000+ words) of Green Bank can be found in A Journey to the Tea Countries of China by Robert Fortune (1852). Fortune wrote that rugged mountains were seen to one side of Green Bank, contrasting with the luxuriant vegetation of the garden. He lists the shrubs and fruit trees, such as Chinese banyan, India rubber, Indian neem, Chinese cinnamon, coconut, loquat, Chinese gooseberry, wangpee, longan, leechee, pinus, bamboo, and more.
A bamboo avenue called “Orchid Walk”, cool even in
midday, led to an orchid garden, in which numerous of orchid plants are listed by
their scientific names. Above Orchid Walk were banks of myrtles, gardenias,
oleander, and croton. A large collection of plants was placed on each side of the broad terrace in front of the “mansion”.
These plants, camellias, azaleas, roses, and others plants were grown in pots “prettily
painted in Chinese style and placed on porcelain stands”.
Green Bank |
Braine and Eudora Marriott had 10 children. Two, Julia Caroline and Helen, were born in Hong Kong, in 1848 and 1849.
Braine appears to have left Hong Kong around 1850. The house and garden were offered for sale to the Hong Kong Government as the Governor’s residence and a public garden.
Before he left Hong Kong,
Braine had sent Sir William Jackson Hooker, Director of the Royal Botanic
Gardens, Kew, dried ferns and a large collection of seeds. The two letters he
wrote to Hooker are on record. A passionate collector of ferns, one, Brainea, is named after Charles Joseph
Braine.
Brainea |
Lan Kwai Fong |
Mid-Levels |
The area where Green Bank was
located is now called Lan Kwai Fong, best known in Hong Kong for its night life
(see above photo). The rugged hills in the background of Dent’s House (in the
picture above) is now known as mid-levels. Both Lan Kwai Fong
and mid-levels are extremely expensive, built-up areas, in terms of property values.
Back in
the UK
Braine next appears two letters
he wrote from Way House, near Taunton, UK, to Sir Jackson Hooker of the Royal
Botanic Gardens, Kew. In one, dated 13 December 1850, he complains that two
boxes of plants that were sent to Hong Kong had gone to Rio de Janeiro instead,
and assumes they were lost. Braine regrets that the Hong Kong Governor will not agree to his proposal
of turning Braine's garden in Hong Kong into a public botanical one, because of
the expense of getting the plants from Rio.
Braine next appears, in 1850, as the owner of a stately mansion,
Abbotsley, in Devon, UK. The
house is described as a “very elegant Mansion of the Italian style” with four
ground floor rooms and a verandah, seven bedrooms, dressing and bathrooms, and
servants’ quarters. He must have been wealthy,
paying £6300 (about £800,000 in today’s money) for the 36-acre property.
Having renamed it “Abbotsleigh”, Braine began its development, adding a 52-foot conservatory, a greenhouse, a well-planted walled garden, ornamental trees and thriving plantations in undulating park-like pastures. He persuaded Kew Gardens to supply the trees and shrubs. New farm buildings were also added, with stables and cow sheds, supplied with spring and rain water, poultry sheds, barns for implements and root crops, a harness room and a liquid manure tank. The workers’ accommodation included a gardener’s cottage and a coach house with a groom’s room above it.
Six of his children were born at Abbotsleigh, including twin boys
John and Percy, in 1855. But, Braine got into disputes with his neighbors and
to financial difficulties as well, having to mortgage the property for £5000.
The house was sold in 1862 to the Roman Catholic church, and Augustinian nuns
moved in to start a Priory.
Abbotsleigh Priory |
In 1862, Braine moved to Ceylon as the manager of Ceylon Co. No
information is available on his work at the company. In 1880, he is listed as
the owner of Abbotsleigh Estate in Hatton, in the central hills, known for the best tea. (Obviously named after his
property in Devon.) He may have bought some acres of forest, cleared it, and
planted coffee. The timing was not good, because a leaf disease known as the
“coffee blight” began to spread and decimated the coffee plantations. Of 1700
coffee planters, only 400 stayed on in Ceylon.
Braine must have left, because, in 1881, he is listed as the
head of a household in Kensington, in central London. In 1879, he had hired a
manager, Norman Roswell, for Abbotsleigh.
(Roswell later became the Ceylon’s first Commissioner of Labor.) By 1883, only 19 acres at
Abbotsleigh were used for tea, while
209 acres were used for coffee and cinnamon. Braine is listed as the owner of Abbotsleigh till
1884.
Eudora, Braine’s wife, passed away in 1873, and is buried at St Mary church burial ground, Caterham, Surrey, UK.
Two
of their sons, Charles Frederick (in 1869) and Arthur Belgrave, came to Ceylon
as planters. Charles Frederick first worked for Ceylon Company Ltd., where his father was manager, before taking up planting. Neither joined Abbotsleigh Estate. Arthur Belgrave is listed along
with his father in the Kensington household in 1881, so he, too, must have
returned to the UK.
Kensington records from 1881 |
Following
Charles Joseph’s lead, three generations Braines became coffee, tea, rubber,
and coconut planters in Ceylon.
Charles
Joseph Braine passed away in England on 22 October 1890. He was my great, great
grandfather.
view of Abbotsleigh Estate |
Manager's bungalow |
Green Bank https://gwulo.com/node/30942#12/22.2825/114.1059/Map_by_ESRI-Markers/100
Abbotsleigh Priory